Tuesday, November 10, 2015

July 12, 2015: Reliving the dream of cycling around Taiwan, stage 2: Tainan - Taitung

Garmin Activity: https://connect.garmin.com/modern/activity/835577656
213km, 8h12, elevation 1311m

I enjoyed a good night rest and then i woke up in Tainan city. I had breakfast at the hotel and a small chat with the receptionist about the Dutch history in Tainan. Then I asked hi; which direction Hwy ! was. Checking the map, the best way of going south would be via this Hwy 1, which would first lead me through Kaohsiung and then Pingtung.


A rich breakfast before a whole day of pedalling


Downtown Tainan, along Hwy 1


The first 15 km were kinda dull, just navigating along Hwy 1. The regular sight of traffic and red lights.


The weather was not perfect with a somewhat overcast sky


When I came passed this red bridge with blue tubes, i realized that I had also come here in 2013. But from the other direction.


On my way south I saw the Tainan airport. After some 25km I made it to Kaohsiung.


Kaohsiung science park, one of the many industry zones of the west coast



Gradually I was making my way into the city center of Kaohsiung. 



Reflective clothing and gear add to the safety of my mission



Kaohsiung, in Taiwanese modern literature also referred to as the city of love. In 2013 it was my city of love. Now it is nothing but a memory.



Some hills and mountains here


From an adventuring perspective, Hwy 1 is pretty boring. However, on the southwestern part of the island, there aren't many alternatives.


Stuck in traffic


The largest building of Kaoshiung. I believe it is called Tower 85.


Keeping in mind that the bike must be ridden


Then all of the sudden I could see the name Pintung appear on the signs. It was less than 10km. After some twists and turns I crossed the bridge that led me into Pingtnug county.


Kaoping bridge, the bridge located between Kaoshiung and Pingtung county. If you look closely on the map of Taiwan, you will find that there is a channel running vertically between the two counties.


A view over the bridge. I will never forget these special shaped lanterns.


The plains of southwest Taiwan



Welcome to Pingtung county


I stopped to check the map closely and I saw that I could take a mini-detour, there was a way of avoiding some of Hwy 1. So that's what I did. I cycled through a variety of small roads, first route 189. When I was here it started to rain


Raining while I'm far away from home. Good thing I had my bike equipped with this mud guard.

At some point, 189 disappeared into a city center and I could not find it again. I somehow re-entered Hwy 1 and decided to just keep following that.


Road works at this section, the billboard were lying on the asphalt


The task was easy, just keep going south along Hwy 1


A very special name popped up in the middle of the road: Kending! So many memories at this place. But on today's ride, I would not pass through Kending. Instead of Hwy 26, I would connect to the Nanhui, Hwy 9. Check the map for that. I wanted to do things a little different from 2013.


When I saw this sign, I made my calculations: 118km to Taitung, with some 90 done already. Going to Taitung would provide me with a second 200+ ride in two days. That's when I decided I would continue today's journey until Taitung.


Fellow cyclist's traveling around the island. 



Bartman enjoying the ride, taking pictures and forgetting about his troubles.



I was going south on the map and I was making good progress towards the end of Hwy 1.


For those who like to buy a temple


Nameless bridge... usually these constructions do get a name but not this time.


The road changed into a big open field where the wind was strong. I could definitely feel it.




Enjoying the views in a moment without time




There was already mist in those hills...


Fangshan and Fenggang townships, near the southern edge of the island, close to Nanhui


I saw this little path leading toward the coast. It was only just right for my road bike. I made a short clip there and took a moment to witness the sight.




Fangshan, one of the many places along Hwy 1


This is that little trail. This picture is taking with the sea in the background and Hwy 1 up front.


A look on the bike computer indicated that I had already done more than 100km today.


Hwy 1 was already past the 450km mark, something special for Taiwan, because due to the island's geographic dimensions, there will not be a lot of roads to make it to that number. In fact there is only 3 that go over 400: Hwy 1, 3 and 9. 


Near the south I could see more mountain ranges


This sea is in fact the Taiwan Strait, between China and Taiwan. Many were the vessels that capsized here and the sailors that lost there lives in the previous four centuries. This fate would befall on several nationalities and etnicities.



Good afternoon and welcome to Bartman radio, live from Taiwan's Fenggang area



When I checked the map, I know I had to be really close to the intersection of Hwy 1 and 9.



Four hundred and fifty-seven!


When I first visited Kending in late June 2011, the tour bus came through here. I realized that now. 


Taitung right lane.


A view back from where I just came



Looks like it is raining in those hills and that just happens to be where I am going






Hwy 1 was finished after 460km. From here it would be a count-down from Hwy 9. I know the 0km mark is in Taipei city. Back in 2013, I took Hwy 9 all the way from Yilan to Taitung.


Going good, according to my schedule and planning, I would complete two 200km rides in two days. Excellent work!


From Fenggang, Hwy 9 runs over a hill called Nanhui into Taitung conuty. The last time I traveled around Taiwan, I went to Kending via route 26, so this was all new to me.


The first few miles were not steep or difficutl


Yet, I somehow felt scary because I never came here before, I knew this road led into the mountains, I saw the dark skies above me and it was getting late. Not to mention I had certain friends talking about this section. I had to hurry up.



There was more than enough to see here, aboriginal tribes, fantastic scenery,low traffic... This was a very nice alternative to Kending.


The Yitun tribe, maybe that is a transcription of Eden, like Garden of Eden. Not sure though...


I was heading for dark skies. Would I be encountering rain?


What a view. At moments like these I cannot describe how much I like Taiwan. It has this escape-reality feature which is beyond words.


A strange mix of dark skies and sun rays. I know there would be shit





And yes there was shit! After some 15km the road started going up and right at this moment it started to rain. I hid under a small rooftop for a while but then I decided to just keep going, after all, there would still be a very long section after making it to Taitung county. The climb lasted for quite a few km and all of the sudden I knew where I was. the Shouka station. I had come here in 2013 from the other direction. This was the one road I had not taken. Back then I continued my ride to Xuhai via 199 and 200. Today i came from the other direction and would descent where I climbed in 2013. Everything fell neatly in its place.


Shouka, a must for who cycles around the island.



In Chinese. Shouka bicycle rest stop of Pingtung county's Shizi township.


This is road 199 I took in 2013. 


It had been raining seriously and the skies were still dark. It would have been a dangerous descent, hand't it been for my disc brakes. I could control my speed in every single corner. Great feeling!


But my heart was rejoicing over this ride. I was a moral winner.


Welcome to Taitung county. I was now officially on the east coast of the island.





It appeared that things were better on the other side of this hill


All of the sudden I saw the sun shining brightly and I was forced to take of my jacket, which had become too hot


I did a small video report on this sunny side of the hill. Then I continued my descent along Hwy 9. The signs indicated me that it would still be a good 50km to Taitung. That's why I decided to first take a break in a Family Mart.


I had exchanged the Taiwan Strait for the Great Pacific. This was a spectacular view.


The sun was really shining as you could see from my rear wheel. It was already another fantastic day


You know what they say right? There will be sunshine after the rain. This applies in Taitung too.


This section of Hwy 9 was full of shorter climbs and descents. I accumulated several hundred meters of elevation gain in these 50km.


My late afternoon was the ride back to Taitung. I just had to count back from 50 and eventually I would make it.


The sunset was guiding me on my way there. The feeling was magical.


So many secrets hidden in the Great Pacific


During this part I also recognized several views from my 2013 ride. Back then I came from the other direction and I rode by here in the early morning. Nevertheless I could still remember this.



Already 65km on Hwy 9. I was making incredible mileage these days.



The road ran through a few aboriginal villages



They always say the east coast is the most beautiful part of Taiwan. Well, they are right!


Soon this water would turn into a black color, just like the skies above it. The sounds of wind and water merging would remain unchanged.


Taitung was drawing nearer and it was even time to start looking around for a hostel.


The entrance of a mountain path called Jinzhenshan



Always nice things to see along the way here





Something my two brothers would appreciate...




Then I saw this intersection between Hwy 9 and 11. As indicated on the map, Taitung city might be another 25km. I already surpassed the 200km mark so I decided it was good enough for today. I looked for a local hostel in this very street. I found a small but cozy and clean place for only 350 a night. If I had the chance I would do it all over again. 


First I wanted to stay here but they did not have any rooms left. It was getting dark so I was getting nervous on finding a place to stay the night.


The sunrise in Taitung with the Great Pacific as mood setter. The two characters displayed here are Ping An, meaning tranquil and at peace. When my eyes saw this view, my heart was indeed at peace. Just beautiful! What a way to conclude a mythical ride!


I was staying in a small place and I had the hardest time finding something to eat. Luckily there was one fishing restaurant where I could go. It was packed with Chinese tourists and it was not cheap, but at least I got a good bite before bedtime. 


My fish dish, yummy


The people of this hostel were really friendly, I must say!

Then I uploaded my adventures on FB and hit the sack. There was another guy Evan who was staying there for his holidays. He spent some more time in Taitung. Cannot blame him. Somewhere in me, I wanted to do the same thing! But with a ride like this I am in no position to complain


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