Wednesday, July 2, 2014

August 29 2013: Cycling around Taiwan part 6: Kaohsiung - Chiayi (Typhoon)

Day 6: So we meet again, Mr. Typhoon: Kaohsiung - Chiayi

After having spent two wonderful days with Phoebe in a Kaohsiung city full of Sunshine and memories, it was now time to proceed on my journey. I woke up early - as I always do - prepared my bag, double checked if I had every thing and went outside. The day before I had a Time Trial handle bar installed in the Kaohsiung Specialized bike shop. It would be utmost convenient for the long stretches of road on the western coast. I double checked with the hotel manager to see which direction I had to head out to. I had to follow the Minzu street and just keep going straight forward. I would find Route 1 just like that. And he was not lying...

The strech of road through Kaohsiung city and the Greater Kaohsiung Area was everything but a walk in the park. I felt like a mail man in a small car, driving from mail box to mail box, constantly stopping and waiting and never getting any speed. Ok, I admit it was around 7:30, so I was cycling in the city during rush hour, but still... This really started to annoy me after one hour. The consequence of this was that in one hour, I had only cycled 15 km, and I normally do around 28-29 an hour. This started to improve when I exited the Kaohsiung zone and I found myself somewhere between Kaohsiung and Tainan.

This is where I refound the tranquility which I had been longing for. I was now able to enjoy my all new TT handle bar. I noticed that instead of 28-29 my speed was now around 34-35. If I really pushed it, I could even get a 38 out of it. I did this for approximatley 40 minutes. With few intersections and low traffic (rush hour had passed), I was able to really enjoy this part of the trip. But then, all of the sudden, the thing I hate most happened: I had a flat tyre in my front wheel. However; this was no ordinary flat tyre accident. Normally you feel that your tyre is flat because the bike starts displaying heavy resistance. But this was like a mini-explosion. I hit something at high speed and I heard my tyre explode. The air was leaking at high speed. I knew immediately what was going on, so I stopped immediately, before smashing into the hard concrete. That would have been an abrupt end of my trip.

I walked to the side of the road and started working on my bike. First get the wheel off of your bike, use your tools to separate the outer tyre from the wheel, remove the outer tyre (I saw a very big hole so I was positive I seriously hit something, I think it was a stone). Then I took a new inner tyre, which I had with me. I Always travel with 3 spare tyres, just in case. I filled it with a little air so that its shape could merge together with my wheel. Then I inspected my outer tyre to double check that it was fine. I saw no signs of needles, or holes or whatsoever. I put my outer tire on my wheel and started adding air. I had a special pump with me, which unfortunately took me around 10 minutes to figure out how it works. When I did, I just had to test my arm muscles and and fill it up with air. Obviously it is impossible to add 100+ PSI (6+ bar) with a manual pump. But I had no choice: I started cycling and I stopped at the first Family Mart I came across. I thanked my lucky stars when I saw they had a pump, compatible with road bike tyres. I filled it to 110 PSI and that was the end of my tyre issues. All things considered, I still lost an hour with this and that was what was bottering me. Oh and did I mention I had very, very dirty hands? Cycling around the Island leaves a lot of dirt and debris on the bike and I got messed up in the process :-)

No more time to loose: I hit the road and started cycling. The road signs told me that Chiayi was within 30km, so I wanted to hit that first, before I made another stop. That road went pretty smooth and I was there in less than an hour. Let me tell you why I highly regard the name "Chiayi". When I studied Chinese in Taipei in 2011, there was a very famous novel, called 那些年我们一起追的女孩 by 九把刀. The story was in Chiayi and I wanted to visit it ever since. Today was that day. But I did not know I would not have the chance to enjoy this.

Right before I entered the city center of Chiayi, I saw the sign "Alishan Mountain". This is like the number one mountain of Taiwan and I really wanted to check it out. When I stopped in a 7-11 nearby, the clerk told me that a Typhoon was approaching really fast and that there was no way on earth that I could go up there now. I thought he was just being another kind yet overcaring Taiwanese. But before he even finished his sentence, it started raining. Did I say rain? I meant a heavy downpour, a precipating heavenly fury that raged over the city of Chiayi as if there were no tomorrow. I was litterally stuck in the convenience store. Within 30 minutes, the Streets were full of water. The water level must have been at least 30cm.

There was another cyclist, a Taiwanese with good English (even though I never speak English with Taiwanese) skills. He told me that this was a Typhoon and that it would be around for days. He told me that, in my case, it would be better to head back to Taipei first and then come back to finish the trip later. Having already seen the impact of a Typhoon at my arrival, I believed his story and we decided to go to the train station. But we first had to visit a local bike shop to get a bag that would allow us to take the bike on the train. By the time we made it to the Railway station, we were soaking wet.




 The Tianyou hotel in which I had stayed for two nights. Time to hit to road and continue the journey
 A serious look early in the morning
 My newly installed Time Trial handle bar. Perfect for this part of the trip




 A lot of stop signs on my road. It really brought the momentum out of my trip and sometimes even out of my mood.
 From my point of view I am heading from Kaohsiung to Tainan. Obviously I am taking the side of the road made for mopeds and bicycles.


 A lot of factories and companies beside the road over here. This is clearly a more intensely used area of Taiwan.
 But the good part is there is a lot of space, so no need for cars jumping in your neck.
 Checking out my dash board equipment and enjoying some music. I needed that music for this part of the trip, to prevent it from getting too dull
 Somewhere between Kaohsiung and Tainan
 This is a good summary of the road I faced all day: straight ahead with no ascents or descents




 The road took me through smaller townships and villages as well.


 According to the signs, this is where the Tainan Airport is... And for those with a sharp eye, the van on the right did not have the least intention to respect my priority on this intersection.
 A view from my bike camera, yeah it was hanging over to the left a little
 Tainan city, busy and crowded as ever. At this time it was somewhere between 8 and 9 so this could be considered as "rush hour"
 Very important: the Confucius veneration zone. Tainan's Confucius temple is an important one. According to Lonely Planet, it is the oldest one on R.O.C. territory, being over four hundred years in date. It was built by Chinese immigrants during the era of Dutch occupation.
 Taking a break at a 7-11 (or Family Mart)
 Another stoplight!


 I am standing in the special area of cyclists and motopeds, referred to as the "slow vehicule waiting zone"
 I visited Taiwan in November 2012 with Tars, a good friend of mine. We went to Meinong and passed through Xinshi. It was cool seeing it again.
 A typical Taiwanese company: high tech, engineering or electrical appliances.


 I am having WAY TOO MANY red lights today. I had NONE on the entire east coast and I am having a 100 in less than 80 km.
 Making another road change, but it all heads North pretty much
 Taking a pit stop for lunch. Too bad there was nothing better than a Seven around...
 Still enjoying myb new TT handle bar. For long straight parts, it is fun!
 And this is a good example of a long straight strech. And it is only for cyclists!
 We have cows at home so I just had to say hi to these ladies!
 I am really starting to feel home right now, with a wind mill in sight.
 And then the unthinkable happened: a flat tire. TIme to put her on the operation table
 Luckily I brought a spare tire and equipment, so the operation was succesful. My baby lived to see another day.
 Add a new inner tire, fill it with a little air, close the outside tire, and fill it up to 6-7 bar (100 PSI).
 The Aboriginals were watching over me and blessed my operation. I expressed my gratitude for their moral and divine support :-)


 Welcome to Chiayi, the city where the book and the movie 那些年 from 九把刀 is played
 At this point I had completed around 106 km, but there is a lot more where that came from!
 The feeling of accomplishment is always sweet. It makes you wanna go that extra mile!
 I had no idea there was a High Speed Rail station in Chiayi!? Good to remember...
 The legendary Ali Shan mountain. The home of Taiwan's most refined thea, the keeper of every Taiwanese traveler's soul and the challenger of my psysique. Although that challenge would have to occur on another day...
This is the last picture I took before the sky turned black and the typhoon took over. Next thing I knew, it was acquaplaining all over the place and my cycling ambitions were  washed off right away